Each product we sell has reviews on the product page itself. A few links are provided to our most popular products below:
Guitar Maker March 2015: Product Review – Oak & Teak Epoxy
EBay Feedback Reviews
We do sell most of our products on EBay, and a good percentage of our customers leave reviews.
Whilst we don’t recommend you to buy from there, as we have to cover the additional cost of the eBay fees and we cannot afford to offer free shipping etc, the reviews are freely available for all to see:
Reviews from our Customers
Instead of lining all my orangery planters with plastic, I decided to use CPES. It was very easy to apply, and so far has worked brilliantly. My planters are on a wall inside, so I did not want water dripping down the wall from my automatic watering system. So far so good, I do keep checking the underside of each planter, and to this point no water is seeping through at all. I should just mention that I did apply a silicone sealant to the joints between each wals and the floor first as well as the CPES. Whilst I was applying the CPES I had a question about multiple coats. I posted the question, and within hours had received a phone call and was talked through exactly what to do. So all in all, for the product and the customer service, I would heartily recommend CPES.
I make wooden laminated longbows and have found this to be the best epoxy for gluing the woods together ,Bamboo, Padauk, Rosewood,Iroko,Wenge,IPE,Maple,Osage and others I have had no delaminations and more confidence im this glue over any others i have used
This stuff works! Used on superstructure of my wooden boat. Easy to mix, easy consistancy. And pretty easy to sand to a super smooth finish. Invisible once painted. Seems to be tough as nails. All good. I did not try mixing it with any pigment, though I will be doing so for another project. Again, expensive. But suspect long term will pay off. And Steve is a great vendor, very helpful phone conversations both before and after purchase. Thanks!
I can only comment on the short term at this stage. Steve is a very helpful chap - call him with any questions and he always gets back to you. I used CPES on the teak frame on my boats superstructure prior to varnishing, and it has worked a treat. Very happy. Also has worked wonders on repairing some marine ply parts of the superstructure. Recommend both the product (though expensive for sure) and the vendor - top people.
Have used CPES as a primer prior to painting on ply interior refit of small yacht. Application is simple and effective, a couple of coats sealed the good quality exterior ply I am using. Paint took well to the sealed wood. Obviously yet to see if it helps the wood last longer in the marine environment. Will update when I know!
After my lovely dining chair broke I decided to do my own repair rather than trust the job to another after some less than prefect previous experiences. The Oak and Teak epoxy was very easy to use and worked perfectly. My only regret was that I had no other jobs to do as I used so little of the product and have almost full tubes left. Great specialist product and quickly delivered.
This product is fantastic. To try the product out I made a simple biscuit joint - much quicker than mortice and tenon - followed the instructions carefully and left the joint to set for 24 hours. I found it impossible to snap the joint by hand -it is absolutely solid. I have just ordered a larger quantity of the epoxy and am looking forward to assembling 17 oak cabinet doors. Fantastic product - follow the instructions and you will not be disappointed!
I use CPES as a primer on new wood prior to varnishing with Epiphanes. The CPES is a doddle to use, I use medication measuring cups to achieve the correct mix and just paint it on, it goes on like water. Keep applying until you achieve a shiny surface then apply the varnish before the primer fully dries. I have used this method on many wooden items on my boat, whether used inside or out and have had fantastic results and good longevity of the coating. I use CPES on new items as well as recoating old ones, it is expensive initialy but will reduce the amount of time, money and effort needed to keep wood looking good in the future.
On a bus restoration project, I needed to plug up some oversized bolt holes, in the ash framework, and re-drill them. With another adhesive, I found that the remaining thin shell of the ash plug sometimes broke away on re-drilling. I was advised to use epoxy adhesive, and found this to be the solution.
I have waited a few months before posting a review because I wanted to check it works, it does. I had about 20m of hairline cracks on a smooth rendered house. I tried various other traditional method over the year but the cracks always came back. I would advise taking some time to ensure a smooth finish after applying the filler as it does not sand well, also check when cutting out the cracks as I came across an electrical cable buried in the render.
The best oak glue I have found. Saves all that joint preparation (cleaning mortices etc). Any excess cleans off when joints are cleaned. Highly recommended
Used the product to stop tannin pull in exterior white oak doors. Seems to have worked very well but cannot rate it yet until I see what the worst of the weather can do over the winter. Will get back in the spring hopefully with a 5 * rating
I have a 5 metre horizontal crack in the rendee on a gable end which has caused problems with damp. I read the guide on this site and bought the kit. Followed the instructions and so far everything is working as per the advice. Great site, great products. I did not try for completely hidden repair, just stopping the damp was good enough for me.
I’ve been trying to seal the cracks in my, I suspect not too painstakingly, rendered in the 1970s brick cottage ever since we moved in many years ago. The solutions offered by various helpful persons have failed to last, especially in the case of the vertical cracks between the upper and lower windows at the front: Make Wood Good’s detailed instructions on their web site seemed to make perfect sense, so I invested in the basic kit, with Stixall as I wasn’t sure I was up to coping with anything more complicated!All went well following Steve’s instructions and, although I wasn’t sure there’d be enough, the one tube of Stixall with the help of the filler foam strip coped easily with two approximately 5ft cracks - even though I think I made the first one wider than really necessary. There’s certainly more than enough foam for one tube of Stixall, so if you have longer cracks it might be wise to order an extra tube with the basic kit, to make sure.The Stixall was easy to smooth down using an old trowel and my only minor problem was judging when to apply some sand to roughen and blend in the finish. Too soon and it threatened to ruin the neat Stixall layer, too late and it wouldn’t stick properly.In summary though, the kit allowed me to fill my worst two cracks very well (perhaps I should have started on some of the many lesser ones but I’m so impetuous!) and I shall carry on using the same method on the rest of the place when I’ve recovered from my initial exertions. Obviously it’s early days and I can’t report on the long term effectiveness of the process, but it certainly looks as if it has much more chance of success than anything I’ve seen previously.Very lastly, I was slightly worried that mixing the damp concrete primer with water resulted in a creamy liquid rather than a tan coloured one. I phoned Steve for confirmation that it was OK and he was extremely pleasant and helpful to deal with. It was OK. I think the confusion arises because the primer is American and I suspect they call cream tan.